Meet Amancio Ortega, the fiercely private Zara founder who built a $77 billion fast-fashion empire
Amancio Ortega, the 86-year-old Spanish founder of clothing retailer Zara, is worth around $54 billion.
Ortega owns 59% of Inditex, the world's largest clothing retailer. Besides Zara, he owns Pull&Bear, Bershka, Massimo Dutti, Stradivarius, among others.
Here's how he got his start, built a fast-fashion empire, and became one of the world's wealthiest moguls.
The 86-year-old Ortega was born in northwestern Spain in 1936, the son of a railroad worker and a stay-at-home mother.
He started making clothes with his siblings and future wife, Rosalia Mera, in their home in the early 1960s. In 1975, Ortega and Mera opened the first Zara store in downtown La Coruna, Spain.
"Zara" wasn't his first choice for the store's name. He was planning to name it Zorba after the film "Zorba the Greek," but there was already a local bar with the same name. Because he'd already bought molds of the letters Z-O-R-B-A, he made do with what he had and ended up with the name Zara.
Ten years later, in 1985, Ortega incorporated Zara into a holding company called Inditex. He and Mera separated around that time, but she remained the company's second-largest shareholder.
Ortega owns 59% of Inditex, which is now the world's largest clothing retailer. Inditex owns a portfolio of fast-fashion brands, including Zara, one of the best-known and most successful fashion brands in the world with nearly 3,000 stores in 96 countries ...
... Bershka, which is the second-largest chain by store count in Inditex's entire operation, with its sales representing 9% of the total revenue for the group ...
Inditex has grown into a fast-fashion behemoth. The company reported 27.7 billion euros in revenue – $29.1 billion at current exchange rates – during the 2021 fiscal year and online sales surged, nudging the company closer to becoming one of the world's largest e-commerce sellers.
In November 2018, Marta married Carlos Torretta,— then a modeling agent and son of designer Roberto Torrettain — at her family's home in Galicia, Spain. Spanish publications called the ceremony, which reportedly included a socialite-studded guest list, the "wedding of the year."
Marta Ortega was long considered a favorite to follow in her father's footsteps and lead Inditex. He stepped down as Inditex's chairman in 2011 and handed the reins to executive president Pablo Isla, but in 2022, Marta Ortega took over as Inditex's chairwoman.
Since Inditex's initial public offering in 2001, Ortega has received more than 9 billion euros, or about $10 billion, in dividends, according to Bloomberg.
Most of his cash has been reinvested in real estate through his company's investment arm, Pontegadea. In 2011, he bought the tallest skyscraper in Spain, the 515-foot Torre Picasso in Madrid, for $536 million.
In 2019, Ortega went on a real estate spending spree, acquiring a downtown Chicago hotel for $72.5 million, as well as a building in central Washington D.C. and two office buildings in Seattle that Amazon had leased, for a combined $1.1 billion.
At one point, Ortega owned the Pazo de Dodro farm and estate near La Coruna. The estate was the site of his daughter Marta's first wedding, but it's unclear whether Ortega still owns it.
Ortega is known for being low-key, as executives go. Bloomberg reported in 2012 that he eschewed an office to sit among the designers and fabric experts at Zara's headquarters, while another report said he typically ate lunch with his employees in the company cafeteria every day.
In his free time, Ortega is often seen at equestrian events. He also built an equestrian center near La Coruna, as his daughter Marta competes in show jumping.
Ortega founded the Amancio Ortega Foundation in 2001, a charitable organization focused on education and social welfare. In 2017, the foundation donated $344 million to Spanish public hospitals to provide the latest technology in breast cancer screening and treatment.
In 2020, Ortega donated roughly $68 million to help combat the pandemic, including buying ventilators, face masks, and COVID tests for the Spanish Health System.
Despite running a major fashion retailer for four decades, Ortega is intensely private — there were no public photographs of him until 1999, and in 2012, Bloomberg noted that he had only ever granted interviews to three journalists. One Zara employee who worked with him told The Economist in 2016 that "the true story of Amancio Ortega has not been told."
Ashley Lutz, Mallory Schlossberg, and Melissa Wiley contributed to an earlier version of this story.
Correction: March 27, 2023 – An earlier version of this story misstated the amount of money that Amancio Ortega donated to combat the pandemic. He donated roughly $68 million.
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